CHATEAUNEUFS TASTING

David writes in from New York to proclaim:

These are the Chateauneufs I tasted last week. (There was also a nice white Cotes du Rhone). The notes in Italics are Parker's. Mine are bold. (Yes, I am bold enough to disagree with him.) The store (Union Square Wines) has high prices, These are the sale prices and are closer to retail in other venues. Clearly, popularity plus the rise of the Euro (fall of the Dollar) have taken their toll.

This was the order of tasting, and range from lightest to heaviest.The overall quality was good to excellent - well made wines, good fruit. But some seriously overrated and over- priced wines, such as the first two:

2003 Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf du Pape
Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Rhone; $29.99 SALE!

“The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is filled with elegance, finesse, and precision, offering wonderfully sweet cherry and strawberry fruit… fresh, and full-bodied, with a refreshing delicacy and vigor…” Robert Parker (90-92 points)

Pleasant, nice fruit not much of a finish . Would be a good buy as a generic Cotes du Rhone at $10. Nice, but not special.


2003 Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape
Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Rhone; $39.99 SALE!

“This full-bodied, tannic, rich, age worthy 2003 will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age, and drink well for 12-14 years. One cannot say enough about the extraordinary qualitative revolution that has quietly taken place at this well-known domaine north of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” Robert Parker (89-92 points)

This had the biggest, most complex aroma of any wine in the tasting, but the flavor was only a slightly revved up version of the preceding wine. Both wines faded and became candyish as the evening progressed.


2003 Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape
Red Wine; other red varietal; Rhone; $39.99 SALE!

“…a great success for Beaurenard. Seriously endowed and heady, with high levels of alcohol, glycerin, and concentration, supple tannin, and low acidity, it should drink beautifully for a dozen or more years.” Robert Parker (90-92 points

Finally, a real Chateauneuf, medium body, more complexity, possibly a wine to develop over 3-5 years, very drinkable, but not nearly a patch on the 2001. Not worth the money.

2003 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape
Red Wine; Rhone Blend; Rhone; $44.99 SALE!

“A very strong vintage for this traditionally made Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 2003, a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault… a classic, concentrated essence of Provence, all in an alcoholic beverage.” Robert Parker (92-95 points)

2003 Clos des Papes - 2003

These [above two] were my two favorites. Despite being closed in, both demonstrated rich fruit, complexity, long finishes, and appear to be real agers. Full-bodied, but not ungainly. Sort of like siblings, the same but different. Should age well and long. Classics. These are the ones I bought.


2003 Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard
SALE PRICE: $79.

“… stunning… possesses a classically southern Rhone nose of melted licorice, cassis, black cherry liqueur, smoke, white chocolate, and background oak…. a full-bodied, powerful, intense style that is super pure and long/persistent.” Robert Parker (94-96 points)

I tasted the licorice, but was perplexed. This wine was full of big, very extracted (California-style?) fruit, and alot of tannin. Mouth coating. Monolithic, no complexity. No charm. What will it turn into? A wine for people who buy labels. Impress your friends . Better still, wait until it goes back to $115, so you can really impress them!